ANCIENT CITIES OF CROATIA
There’s a black sphinx in the city of Split
from Diocletian’s time. Her granite face
has watched the world turn for more than three millennia
(her eleven siblings were all beheaded),
her Egyptian cradle now a thing of the past. Oliver Tearle
Croatia seems to have it all: dramatic coastline, ancient cities dating back to Hellenistic and Roman times, over a thousand majestic islands, amazing food and wine culture rivaling that of Italy, and a unique blend of influences.
DUBROVNIK
Our journey began in Dubrovnik, also called the “Pearl of the Adriatic” and formerly known as Ragusa.
The city was established by refugees from Epidaurum in the 7th century. It was protected by the Byzantine Empire at first, and thereafter by Venice. Dubrovnik was a free state from the 14th to the 19th century, and its economy was mostly dependent on sea trade. It gained notoriety for its wealth and diplomatic prowess in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Dubrovnik was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979. The city’s stunning Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture was preserved despite being badly destroyed by an earthquake in 1667 and by the damage caused by the war of 1990s.
Dubrovnik’s most stunning feature are its 2 km long city walls. At some points they are 25 meters high and offer breathtaking views of the city and the nearby Lokrum Island.
Dubrovnik, despite its formidable defenses and diplomatic prowess, experienced multiple conquests and foreign occupations throughout its history. During the golden age of the Republic (from the 14th century until it was dissolved by Napoleon in1808) it had a unique system of governance – Rector’s rule. Rector only served for one month (don’t be surprised), had to be at least 50 years old and after serving his term could not be reelected for another two years. During his term, he was was required to live in the Rector’s Palace, separated from his family. This system was inspired by Venice and its main goal was to prevent abuse of power.
Here’s a breakdown of key events in Dubrovnik’s history:
Venetian Rule (1205–1358)
Dubrovnik (then Ragusa) fell under Venetian control through a treaty in 1205 after the Fourth Crusade. The city adopted Venetian institutions but regained independence in 1358 by becoming a vassal of the Kingdom of Hungary.
Ottoman Influence (1382–1806)
While never fully conquered, Dubrovnik became a tributary state of the Ottoman Empire in 1382, paying annual fees for protection while retaining self-governance. This arrangement allowed it to thrive as a neutral trading hub until the early 19th century.
Napoleonic Conquest (1806–1814)
Napoleon’s forces occupied Dubrovnik in 1806, violating earlier alliances. By 1808, Marshal Auguste de Marmont abolished the Republic of Ragusa and incorporated it into the French Illyrian Provinces. The French imposed blockades and ended centuries of Ragusan independence.
Austrian Annexation (1815–1918)
After Napoleon’s defeat, the 1815 Congress of Vienna transferred Dubrovnik to the Austrian Empire. It remained part of the Kingdom of Dalmatia until the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed in 1918.
20th-Century Conflicts
- World War II: Occupied by Italian and later German forces during the Nazi-controlled Independent State of Croatia2.
- Croatian War of Independence (1991–1992): Yugoslav People’s Army (JNA) forces besieged Dubrovnik for seven months, damaging 56% of buildings—including UNESCO-protected sites—and killing 194 defenders and 82–88 civilians17. Croatian forces lifted the siege in May 1992.
Notable Sieges That Failed to Conquer
- 1185 Siege by Stefan Nemanja: Serbian forces breached walls but were repelled with French assistance.
- 15th–18th Centuries: The city’s walls and diplomacy thwarted repeated Venetian and Ottoman attacks.
Dubrovnik’s history reflects a pattern of strategic surrenders to preserve autonomy (e.g., Ottoman tribute) and forced occupations during geopolitical shifts (e.g., Napoleonic Wars).
The walls survived throughout the history of conflicts and offer an enigmatic glimpse into the past. Dubrovnik is such a gorgeous place to wander and discover even though it is very small: old city population is only 1,557 and the total urban area is about 41,562.
And so many steps …
Stradun, also called Placa, is the central street and heartbeat of Dubrovnik’s Old Town. Spanning 300 meters from the Pile Gate in the west to the Ploče Gate in the east, this limestone-paved pedestrian street is rich in history and cultural importance. Originally a marshy channel that separated two settlements, Stradun was formed in the 11th century by filling in the area, merging Ragusa and Dubrava into one city. The street’s present-day look mainly reflects the rebuilding efforts following the destructive 1667 earthquake, which introduced uniform construction guidelines.
It is lined with uniform Baroque buildings featuring shops on the ground floor and residential spaces above. No balconies were allowed after the earthquake.
Most of the landmarks are just short distance away from the Pile gate: Onofrio’s Fountain, Franciscan Monastery, Dubrovnik Bell Tower, Rector’s Palace and the Old Port.
And more pictures from of the old city
