ICELAND, LAND OF FIRE AND ICE
“It’s a pity we don’t whistle at one another, like birds. Words are misleading. I am always trying to forget words. That is why I contemplate the lilies of the field but in particular the glacier. If one looks at the glacier for long enough, words cease to have any meaning on God’s earth.” – Halldór Laxness
We have long dreamed about visiting Iceland, and it finally happened. Reality may turn out to be disappointing but sometimes you get carried away on a journey that will surpass your wildest expectations. The trip turned out to be a lot more than we dreamed about. Oh, those waterfalls and glaciers, they are so close, it seems they are within your reach! Even though the weather turned out to be quite severe and unpredictable, the untouched landscapes and the light filled us with awe before the eternal spectacle of nature.
Never rich nor powerful, always on the brink of survival, full of amazing contrasts like steam and ice, warmth and harshness, this country captivates you forever with the beauty of its mountains, its sea, and ever-changing skies. It is a country where you can easily lose yourself, a country that allows you to understand what Camus meant by “the tender indifference of the world”.
Things we dreamed about the most, like Northern lights and ice caves, proved to be not as impressive as the surreal landscapes we were unprepared for. Rocks and fantastic black arches of Dyrhólaey (Door Hill Island), and black lava columns of Reynisfjara near the town of Vik proved to be as unforgettable as were huge blue ice crystals of all shapes and hues near Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon. They looked as if thrown in some powerful fit of ecstasy onto the black sand beach and no work of art can ever compare to that view.
FUN AND INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT ICELAND
ICELANDIC FOOD, FROM DISGUSTING TO VERY GOOD
SITES OF THE GOLDEN RING ROAD
We started our journey through Southern Iceland from Keflavik airport and drove via some of the Golden Circle highlights including Thingvellir National Park, the site of the World’s first parliament, and Unesco Heritage site, Geysir, and Gullfoss. Geysir is the first geyser described in a printed source. The English word geyser derives from the Icelandic verb geysa, to “gush”, the verb from Old Norse still spoken by Icelanders.
SITES IN AND AROUND SKOGAR
We passed magnificent Seljalandfoss on the way to Skogar where we spent our first two nights in Iceland.
Dyrholaey (Door Hill Island) was formed in a submarine eruption about 80,000 years ago. Erosion caused some holes or doors to form in those black volcanic rocks which gave the island its name. Dyrhólaey – the arch with the hole. There are many arches scattered around the island. Dyrholaey landscape is truly unique and you feel like the last man on earth surrounded by enormous rocks, arches, and surf.
Churches of Iceland, are idyllic and peaceful. From left to right or top-down: Church in Vic during a blizzard and Kotstrandarkirkja Church, near the town of Selfoss.
Black Sand Beach near the town of Vik offers some of the most otherwordly landscapes on this planet. Here the girl almost drowned carried away by the tide while taking pictures. Luckily she had been saved by the local guide.
ON THE WAY TO SKALAFELL
Dazzled and amazed we continued our journey to the village of Skalafell where we stayed at a guesthouse/farm run by a local family. We passed the Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon, glaciers, and the famous Iceberg Beach at Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon. The farm is located inside Skaftafell National Park, a half-hour drive from Jökulsárlón and half an hour from the nearby town of Hofn, famous for its lobster/langoustine dishes.
Vatnajökull (jökull stands for glacier) located inside the park is the largest ice cap in Europe by volume, the average thickness of the ice is 400 meters. Vatnajökull has around 30 outlet glaciers flowing from the ice cap, one of them is Svínafellsjökull that we photographed.
And finally after a long drive, all the unbelievable scenery, and spending 4 hours waiting for the road to open we reached Skalafell, ready for the spectacle of the Northern Lights, right in front of the hotel.
Next is Iceland’s most incredible site – the Iceberg Beach at Jökulsarlon. There is probably no other place on Earth like this. Icebergs scattered on the Black Sand Beach and the lagoon itself with its fifty shades of blue.
REYKJAVIK
Finally off to Reykjavik, translated as Smoky Bay, the greenest city in the world, runs on geothermal energy where even sidewalks are heated by it. We were utterly amazed by its beautiful Harpa Music Hall which had won the international architecture award and is lit up at night with colors reminding us of the colors of the Northern Lights. It is open to anybody and no two windows seem to be alike.
Striking Sun Voyager – a massive steel sculpture by Jon Gunnar Arnason that may resemble a Viking ship, but is said to be a dream boat and ode to the sun, one of the most beautiful spots along the Smoky Bay and a farewell symbol of our journey. It’s also a symbol of all travelers and adventurous souls who came before us and will keep coming to explore the ethereal landscapes of this amazing country and bond with its warm, wonderful people.
